Durango’s Daniel Ye talks Westholme Grass
“The grass-fed program came about and that was something we were vibing on. To be able to proudly offer it to our customers and for it to be so well-received was like firework show after firework show.” We caught up with Daniel at Nicco’s, the premium steakhouse that is part of Durango Resort and Casino in Las Vegas. Tell us about Nicco’s? Our owners, the Fertitta family, are seriously focused on food and in tune with how important and meaningful it can be. The steakhouse speaks to that: it’s the crown jewel of the food and beverage offering at Durango. It’s elevated and contemporary while still being approachable. We’re always thinking, Let's bring in the best stuff. Let's show everybody, and if we have a moment to educate, let's do it in a very genuine and authentic way, to show people that the good stuff is for all of us. Nicco’s is an all-prime steakhouse. Where does Westholme fit in? I've been a big fan of Westholme even before my time with Nicco’s and Durango. To be able to develop a relationship with the product and the people of Westholme is honestly a dream come true. As long as I’ve known, Westholme has been and continues to be one of the best expressions of Australian beef.
Westholme is an example of people doing the right thing and doing it the right way.
We love to offer it and tell that story. Westholme’s character comes from the cattle’s diet, specifically the grass. Of course you see that in the grassfed product but the fact that all Westholme wagyu spends time on grass makes it special.
There’s also the human factor: you see in the beef and in the people you talk to at Westholme just how much care there is for the product. I think now more than ever that's probably one of the main reasons why people buy something. It's because you know the origin, you know that it was taken care of, and that it was done by people who are trustworthy, and have passion for the product. Yes, price is up there, but I feel that integrity and trust is number one.
“It tasted very rounded, balanced, healthy, wholesome, like this is the way Mother Nature wanted it to be.”
We know how excited you were to receive one of the very first allocations of Westholme’s new 100% grass-fed wagyu. Why did it mean so much to you?
Grass-fed beef is in vogue in the US but it’s difficult to find good grass-fed beef here. That’s coming from someone who eats meat every day for my job. Finding good grass-fed beef has been a challenge. When we found out that Westholme was doing it, we were over the moon.
So how did the Westholme grass-fed hit?
It tasted very rounded, balanced, healthy, wholesome, like this is the way Mother Nature wanted it to be.
When you're eating the best corn-fed meat out of the United States, or some of the ultra-pampered stuff we get from Japan, there's this almost too-good-to-be-true element to the experience. The Westholme tasted real. It wasn't overly unctuous. It wasn't overly fatty. There was no overly anything. It just tasted right.
We love serving Westholme of any sort. The Pure and Cross are approachable and pleasing to a wide range of palates because that’s what we are used to, especially here in the States. The Forage has a more mineral, natural, hearty flavour.
All Westholme cattle spend at least two years on grass, with the grass-fed stream being long finished for a minimum of 5 years on grass as well. They graze a wide variety of native Australian grasses as they wander freely across vast rangelands. Do you get a sense of that when you eat Westholme?
You can close your eyes and feel that thoroughfare to where it came from. I’ve never been to Australia …hopefully I will, one day soon. But I can close my eyes and picture B-roll from Westholme videos. You think of a very peaceful, very rural, bucolic land. That absolutely is the feeling. They lived a good life, and in the most natural way.
It’s easy to sense how passionate you are about food and where it comes from. What was the spark for you to pursue a career as a chef?
Undoubtedly that is my grandmother. My parents immigrated to Los Angeles from Seoul in the 1970s, not long before I was born. My mother and father were focused on the necessities, as well as trying to assimilate into a completely foreign country. But my grandmother was there too, and Korean was spoken at home, and Korean food was eaten at home. Just watching how much love my grandmother put into making kimchi in big batches, to last us the whole year, taught me a lot about being proud of my heritage, and specifically the food of my heritage. It was just that little touch, that sensibility that a mom or a grandma has. I really felt a connection there and I definitely point to her as my gateway to where I am today.
You’ve had a long career, working across steak and seafood, everywhere from New York to Aspen and Miami. Is there a mentor that stands out for you?
I worked with Nobu Matsuhisa for almost eight years. He gave me my start: I went to an event he was cooking at in the early naughts, got his attention and said that I wanted to work with him. I started my apprenticeship with Nobu-san, then worked my way up to executive chef, helping open several locations across the globe.
Is there a key takeaway from that period with Nobu Matsuhista and his restaurants?
Product – whether it's from the land or ocean – has always been a very big priority in terms of my tutelage, my education and now as a leader, as somebody who has the opportunity to teach. The quality of the product is everything. That's exactly why we enjoy working with meat from Westholme, and why we are proud to say that we offer it.
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